Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Is this a wine to rejuvenate the failing fortunes of Australian cabernet sauvignon? In its 29^th release, Bin 407 steals the show, sets the pace with a fully energised, beautifully balanced young cabernet of class. It’s all the more significant because it’s from a warm-hot vintage across the regions where fruit was sourced. The Barossa Valley, for example, experienced 31 days of temperatures exceeding 35C.

A bright, punchy introduction of freshly picked black and blue berries, violet, dried herbs, a hint of clove. But it is the oak component – French (27% new) and American (8% new) – that shines because it’s fully integrated, balanced. It dares you to suss it out amid all of the ripe fruit goings-on. So dark, so fresh across the palate with black strap licorice, bay leaf, dried sage working in a matrix of super fine tannins.