Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz 2024

The team source the fruit used here from three different McLaren Vale vineyards – the Lower Tintara Vineyard, originally planted by Thomas Hardy in the 1880s (it is located on the well-known Kays Road), although this block was planted only two decades ago; the Picnic Grounds Vineyard, which is adjacent to Lower Tintara (it was originally owned by Thomas Hardy); and the Price Vineyard, located at what the team call the gate to McLaren Vale. Each batch was processed discretely, and blending took place just before bottling, after barrel selection. Maturation was for twenty months in new and older French oak hogsheads. Black blood red with a dark purple rim, this is generous and approachable and really does have a good future ahead of it. Finally balanced with aromas of chocolate, root vegetables, bay leaves, mocha, dried herbs, blackberries and tobacco leaves. There is a dense creamy texture through to satiny tannins and seriously impressive length. Delicious now and should remain so for the next fifteen years. In a portfolio with some really good examples of McLaren Vale Shiraz, I’m not sure this one should stand out quite as much as it does, but who’s complaining. Astonishing value.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic