An Australian icon – Tahbilk Marsanne 2019
WINNER of a Winepilot Trophy for the greatest value wines in Australia.
The most under-rated white wine in Australia? Marsanne. No other grape variety is quite so invisible.
Enter Tahbilk, a producer in Central Victoria, and the hero in the story of Marsanne in Australia having grown, championed and, at times, single-handedly, doggedly, encouraged us to give it a go.
Tahbilk Marsanne is the standard, the benchmark by which I judge all others. It is resolute and timeless in style, a classic. The 2019 vintage is strong, a brighter presence in the glass than the 2018, with a delicacy that sometimes reminds me of Riesling. Signature honeysuckle, jasmine aromas – aromatic and lifted – with lemon blossom.
The palate is generous with grapefruit pith, fruit peel, lemon and an almond mealy-ness. The grape is not naturally blessed with high acidity and so it’s picked early (alcohol is 12%) and it is that early-picked lemony acidity that is going to hold this wine on its journey.
Did I mention that Marsanne also ages a treat??