Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown Beechworth Riesling 2023

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Puncheon fermented and three to four months on lees before bottling. Reticent to start with subtly sweet lemon blossom popping out with a swirl of the glass, followed by lemon juice, lemon rind, honeysuckle, green apple skin, a faint whiff of high quality cedar, and a glimmer of ginger and lemon thyme. It’s a quiet little number aromatically, though with poise and complexity enough to intrigue and delight. The palate bursts flavour, however, with lemon juice, lemon rind, apple, and cedar sitting within a chalky, talcy texture and a taut acid frame leading to trademark length. The finish is led by citrus again, with that little flourish of sweet florals in the mouth perfume. This is fresh, bright and complex. Even in a brutally long, cold and wet vintage like 2023, VS&B deliver the goods. 64 dozen produced.

Tom Kline
Wine Critic at Winepilot

Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.

Wine tasting and writing
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