Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown Chardonnay 2024

Frost hammered the Thorley vineyard in late October 2023, leaving no fruit to declassify for this wine. Instead, fruit was sourced from Clare Burder’s Whitlands vineyard, which sits at a similar altitude with vines rooted in old basalt soils. It’s immensely gratifying from the outset — fine cedar and flint quickly filled out by poached cinnamon apple, lemon curd, preserved lemon, woodsmoke and a glimmer of green almond. Deeper nectarine and toffee apple notes emerge with air, along with a suggestion of nougat and subtle lees-derived dough. Lots going on. The palate delivers sapid flavour wrapped in supple texture, all underpinned by beautiful freshness. Green apple, citrus preserves, almond, grilled nectarine, Meyer lemon, flint and cedar again. It dances through the mouth with chalk-powder phenolics and bright, driving acidity pulling length. The complexity and poise here punch well above its price. Just 114 dozen made – run, don’t walk.