Aces & Arrows Grüner Veltliner Adelaide Hills 2020

This is part of what overlords, Pernod Ricard, see as a ‘Passion Project’, and one, I imagine, that the winemakers would love. The idea is that four of their top winemakers are given free reign – region and grape variety – to come up with something special. It is a great idea and one that other companies might consider doing a bit more of, when they can. This allows for winemaker innovation and experimentation that can often lead to the development of crowd favourites and even become part of their core range. Here, we have four winemakers doing what flicks their respective switches. My only issue is that the winemakers are only identified by first names. I’m sure many winelovers would love to know exactly who they are. Packaging is also very appealing. First up was Tim with this lovely Grüner from the Adelaide Hills. Harvested and pressed at night to enhance freshness, 10% of the wine is fermented in old oak – the rest in tanks. Green/gold hue with notes of peaches, lemongrass, spices and a minerally backing here. A supple creamy texture, the wine has excellent length and a seamless structure. The palate sees the emergence of florals and hints of apples. This is a very fine local example of Grüner and should drink very well over the next three to four years.