Bindi Dhillon Riesling 2022
- 93
- $35
- Drink by: 2023-2033
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Riesling is not the first variety one thinks of when considering the wines from Michael Dhillon and Bindi but, like everything Michael does, it is exemplary. The Dhillon label is a relatively new project from Bindi, to focus on wines other than their traditional efforts, with grapes from neighbouring Macedon vineyards. This Riesling is from the Glenhope Vineyard at Macedon. Fermentation is by way of wild yeasts in a combination of tank and oak barrels, before the wine spends five months on lees. The colour is a shimmering pale lemon with aromas of citrus, florals and spices topped with river stone and grapefruit pith notes. There are hints of early complexity and delicate acidity with fine balance, though the structure reveals the wine as a little broader than we might see with the traditional classic Rieslings from the Clare and Eden Valleys – nothing wrong with that – and the finish lingers with intensity. This is surely a ten year proposition, though will provide plenty of pleasure in its earlier years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
