Brokenwood 1899 Old Vines Semillon 2023
- 94
- $66
- Drink by: 2025-2040
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This 1.7 hectare vineyard was, no surprise here, planted in 1899, and sits opposite the famous Oakey Creek Vineyard. A late harvest by Hunter standards – end of the first week of February – which is, of course, the equivalent of pre-dawn in most districts. Just the second release of this single vineyard wine. No oak used here. The colour here is a near invisible lemon. We have notes of spices, lemongrass, herbs and citrus, most notably fresh Meyer lemons, as well as a touch of grapefruit. There is a supple texture, fine balance and wonderful length with a lingering finish. On the palate, there is also a flicker of pineapple. This has fifteen years of pleasure ahead of it as it develops into a classic and delicious Hunter Sem.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
