Brokenwood Semillon 2020
- 90
- $28
- Drink by: 2021 - 2026
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There was a time when Brokenwood was the new kid on the block, jostling for a place at the big boys’ table with Lindeman’s, McWilliams, Tyrrells and Rothbury. Tyrrells is the only one left of the old guard, still at the top of their game, though there are plenty of others keen to add their name. Brokenwood gained its place many years ago and does not look like conceding it any time soon.
These days, they offer their popular standard (this one, in case that was not obvious), single vineyards and the pinnacle, their ILR Reserve. There are aged offerings mixed throughout. Of course, vintage conditions in the Hunter mean that not all wines are available every year. 2020 will not go down as one of the greats – while years like 2013, 2014, 2017, 2018 and 2019 are all contenders.
Despite vintage difficulties, they have come up with a very fine semillon from ’20. This is limpid, trout stream clear. Youthful and with some gentle ripeness on offer. Some crisp green apple acidity. Fresh and bright. Citrus to be found here. A whiff of grapefruit? Sure, it will age for a few years but for me, this is a vintage I’d drink while waiting for the stars to develop. And I’d drink this in preference to almost any sauvignon blanc you care to name. It is incomprehensible that top Hunter Semillon barely registers as a footnote before the Sauvalanche.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
