Clandestine Vineyards Malbec 2020
- 94
- $30
- Drink by: 2022-2032
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Margaret River Malbec – more often seen as a minor blending component, but always fun to see if these varieties can stand on their own two feet. This comes from a single vineyard in the Wilyabrup sub-region, which was planted in 2000. It is a low yielding vineyard on gravelly loam soil. The wine sees ten days fermentation on skins in open fermenters, hand plunged twice daily. It is then pressed and racked into seasoned French oak barriques for 14 months. There is a dollop of Frankland River Cabernet included prior to bottling, “to brighten the palate”. 3,600 bottles.
An opaque purple colour, this is intense and brooding. Good concentration with notes of chocolate, black olives, black cherries, cloves and pretty much any other black fruit you can think of. Supple and seamless, this certainly stands up as an excellent example of a straight varietal Malbec – one of our best. Firm yet silky tannins, bright acidity, there is real power here but fine balance. Full of flavour, this wine can be enjoyed any time over the next five to ten years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
