A new Yarra icon is born – De Bortoli Lusatia Chardonnay 2017

The Lusatia Park property has a proud history. Planted in 1985, bought by the Shelmerdine and then De Bortoli family more recently, it has been the home of the De Bortoli PHI Chardonnay, which was always superb, but not this good. Now there is what is essentially a reserve label from the best blocks and has a brand new pretty label and name – Lusatia. Steve Webber has made some great Chardonnay, but this is by far the best.

It is a super youthful and exquisite Chardonnay that needs plenty of air to open up and starts off very shy. It takes a couple of hours for the wine to finally emerge but it is worth the wait – very pure peach skin and apple fruit, savoury delicatessen complexity and spicy oak with a little French nougat in the mix. It is dry, bright and classic classy Chardonnay on the palate with a long, pristine line of fruit superbly balanced with crisp, yet fine acidity. Exceptional balance and precision too with a freight train of restrained yet powerful fruit plus an uber long, focussed, fine and silky finish. It is like a top drawer Meursault Premier Cru and will age beautifully. Epic Aussie Chardonnay and one of the best in the country from a strong year.