Dewey Station The Venus Express GSM 2022

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Looking at the expressive label, with the train locomotive shaped bottle of wine, I can picture shining wild black fruits, the red dirt under the train trails, the smoke, the leathery train seats (imagine we are somewhere in the 1800s), and notes from old-school rolled tobacco. Then I can see some juniper berries, cracked pepper, and rosemary spring, most probably sprinkled over a rack of lamb served in the train’s first class. The palate is moreish yet boisterous, so quintessentially Barossa. There is a sweetness of fruit, yet sourness from that acidity, spices, and bitterness from the expanded tannins. Yet those tannins are firmer at the end of the palate, leaving a sort of granular feeling. It’s a giving wine all the way through.

Lisa Cardelli
Wine Critic at Winepilot

Lisa Cardelli is an Italian-born wine professional who has been based in Melbourne since 2010. She worked as a sommelier in some of the city’s leading fine-dining restaurants for over ten years before leaving hospitality to become a wine sales representative. Lisa is now a journalist for Il Globo, the newspaper for Italians in Australia and around the world, where she also curates her own wine column. She continues to write about wine for both local and international publications and is on track to become one of the few prolific bilingual wine writers in Australia. A certified WSET Educator, she teaches at various venues across Melbourne. She also judges at local wine shows and for the prestigious Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards. Lisa was the recipient of the 2022 Wine Communicators of Australia award for Best Published Feature Article, a finalist for the same award in 2024, the recipient of the 2022 Sydney Royal Wine Professional Development Scholarship sponsored by the Len Evans Foundation, and one of twelve carefully selected Len Evans Scholars in 2024.

Wine tasting and journalism
Date
Variety: Other, Specialty