Domaine Naturaliste Artus Chardonnay 2021

This is a wine that lets you know when it’s arrived at the doorstep. The yang to the yin of the Purus, this wine is full of buttery malo notes, wild yeast and grape solids with 10 months of monthly battonage and time sur lie. There’s abundant toasty Allier oak, but with a shimmering body of concentrated and powerful Wilyabrup fruit operating as the current that pulls this wine along. This is an old-school Chardonnay that packs a punch. Parmesan rind, ripe stone fruit, nutmeg, autolytic notes, crushed cashew nuts and a rounded generous and plush mouthfeel with a quiver of acidity keeping it fresh and energetic. The fruit is evenly weighted across the palate and amongst all of that oak it has a delicacy to it, purity and sweetness of character. This is an opaque wine – it’s dense with flavour, supple and there’s nothing to hide. Spherical in shape, you can see its curves from all angles. It’s confident and gorgeous – the epitome of a femme fatale resplendent with curves, shoulder pads, heels and red lippy. This wine knows what it is and is unashamed in flaunting all that it has going for it. There are so many reasons to applaud, not least the length that rivals that of Elton John’s farewell tour: it goes on and on, and for good reason. Every sip leaves you aching for more.