E. J. McDougall Old Vine Shiraz 2023
- 96
- $68
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From two small blocks in one vineyard planted 1939 and 1942. No irrigation in 2023. Handpicked and destemmed with selected stems then put back in for fermentation in concrete vats. Basket pressed off for elevage in seasoned French foudre for 12 months. 14.5% ABV. Peppercorn, subtle stemmy spice, stewed rhubarb, tilled earth, dried herbs and black tea leaf sit above velvety, dark and vibrant forest berry fruits in the form of blackberry and black plum. There’s some savoury black olive and a whisper of paprika beneath, rounding out what is a poised and complex aromatic profile. The palate has a creamy and weighty texture but it’s cut up and lifted by firm structure. Blackberry, brown spice, milk chocolate, stemminess, dried flowers, plum and mulberry are coiled within firm-but-fine grainy tannins. Great acidity here, it rolls through the back palate adding coolness and lift, slicing through the wine’s textural heft. The finish is poised and long with some espresso like bitterness adding a gastronomic edge. This is dark in profile but with a velvety aesthetic, great complexity and critically architectural structure.
Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.
