Hesketh Watervale Riesling 2023

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If I may be allowed to insert a personal note, nothing one loves more than including a ‘blind’ Clare Riesling in a tasting of star wines from around the globe. You can be guaranteed that the wine snobs will absolutely adore it, well at least until they find out it is probably a tenth or even less of the price of other wines on show. Everyone should have at least a few cases of good Clare Riesling in their cellar, and this is a good one (and cracking value). Transparent lemon hue, the nose offers us orange rind, hints of glacéd fruit and bright lemon notes. It is a little more forward than some, and certainly more forward than we might find with some neighbouring sub-regions, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Soft and clean, there is a hint of a chalky backing. Very good length, fine balance and bright, zesty acidity.

Ken Gargett
Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic
Pilot
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