Hewitson Ungrafted Grenache 2022

Grenache is in the ascendancy and the Barossa wine region is well-placed to help lead the way. The choice of name, Ungrafted Grenache – maybe not the most romantic of wine names – underplays both the seriousness of the grapes employed – sourced off 100+ year old, dry grown vines – but also the wine itself. It’s a real beauty and quite fascinating in its complexity which changes each time you return to the glass. Delicate, exotic in scent – juniper, black tea, maraschino cherry, black pepper, rosemary, hibiscus. You have to admire the deceptive pleasure that old vines can bring to a grape like Grenache. On first look, it’s all red fruits and lively spice and herbs. On the second and third look, the fruit expands, the spice and herbs run longer and deeper, and there’s also the introduction of a touch – just – of smoked meat savouriness. It seems effortless. I’m sure the viticulturist and winemaker worked hard to make it all seem so easy, so pure.