Howard Park Chardonnay 2020
- 92
- $58
- Drink by: 2021 - 2032
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A little ‘less is more’ happening here. Less immediately obvious and luscious, that’s a given. More reserved, more citrus and fine-textured, less of the familiar Marg’s friendly, ripe stone fruits and warmth. The vintage makes for a different expression of the grape, and it has a lot of appeal. It doesn’t pay to pigeon-hole Margaret River chardonnay because just when you think you have it nailed, it will turn in a vintage like 2020. Howard Park owners, the Burch family, regard the year as “very good,” yet one that is slow to show its “true potential.” I like the idea of a wine that holds something back for later, isn’t immediately obvious, a wine that is innately less “sunshine in a bottle” Australian.
White flowers, lemon, grapefruit zest and fresh-cut apple aromas. Don’t’ overchill this little charmer, it won’t like it and close down. It then goes on to explore bright citrussy flavours, pear and mandarin skin which mesh nicely with zesty, bright acidity. Oak is slurped up and the mouthfeel is mealy and gentle. The more time you are willing to give this wine, the more it will reveal. Just don’t overchill it, all right!
Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.
