Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling 2022

Riesling comes in many different forms – skin contact, fermentation in oak, wild ferment, etc, – but there is a classic style of Riesling that never goes out of date. Mort’s Block epitomises that classic approach in its concentration of fruit and singular purity of expression. Floral and spring-like in scent: citrus blossom, lime, spicy musk, orange peel. Youthful, taut in structure with emerging white peach, ginger spice and citrus flavours. Time is on its side. Mort’s Block, which is the basis for this label, boasts old vines planted in 1970 and grown on red loamy soils over limestone. That limestone plays a role. There’s an almost effortless balance here with mineral-laced fineness. Watervale Riesling in a great year deserves more time in the cellar, but few will be able to resist opening a bottle right now.