Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay 2020

Always one of our very greatest Chardonnays – Grand Cru, all the way. Crafted in 100% top-notch new French oak, this latest release is considered by many to be as good as any ever made, and it is hard to disagree. The wine is the palest yellow, with a nose immediately screaming complexity. Hazelnuts, stonefruits, florals, pears, matchsticks and spices, there is a fine minerally backing here, supporting the wine and maintaining intensity for the full, very long, journey. Integration of the oak is immaculate. Touches of the lime notes, typical in this wine, are evident, as is that more-ish salinity on the conclusion. Great intensity, and yet such is the balance that it seems almost imperceptible. Power, layering, elegance and extraordinary length. I gave it 98, but that seems a little cruel. It will drink beautifully for a decade or two and no doubt reach even higher levels.