Margan Breaking Ground Chardonnay 2021

Margan is a very well known family name in the Hunter, based around Broke, and Breaking Ground is the project of 3rd generation Ollie. It reflects a more modern take on the traditional Hunter style, without fining and filtration or any hardcore chemicals in the vineyards, with sustainability clearly a key consideration. The fruit for this chardonnay was also picked earlier than usual to help retain brightness and freshness. From the whole range you can see this is a rethink of classic Hunter styles which is very welcome.

Pale in colour, it is actually a little shy to begin with; citrus and honeydew melon fruits build slowly into more nectarine and orange peel with time in the glass. It’s the kind of wine that draws you in. There is an attractive savoury offshoot too with shortbread oak and nougat lees giving weight and depth. The palate is then crisp and bright with cleansing acidity but is not short of flavour – again citrus and melon with spicy oak which leads to a subtle and drying finish. If you think Hunter Valley chardonnay is all fruit and oak, think again.