Mitchell Wines McNicol Shiraz Clare Valley 2009

Not every Australian wine producer sees the need for a cellaring program, one that celebrates aged wines. Keeping and maintaining inventory can be expensive, so it’s heartening to see a small, family-owned Clare Valley producer maintaining a cellaring program for its two regional stars: riesling and shiraz.

McNicol shiraz brings a touch of old school Clare about it or, maybe it’s the wine’s age talking, with its scent of baked earth, leather, dried fruit, clove, cinnamon and touch of local eucalypt. It keeps a medium-bodied presence, quite svelte, as it enters its second decade and embarks on a range of mature and savoury characters led by earth and leather.

At the top of its game.