Moss Wood Chardonnay 2022
- 94
- $112
- Drink by: 2023-2031
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A vintage of contrasts but certainly yet another of the seemingly endless procession of superb years in Margaret River. The juice was clarified in stainless steel, seeded with an array of yeasts for a controlled ferment. Racking to oak, 228-litre French oak, 54% of which was new. Full malo, blending of all components and then back to oak for 16 months. Margaret River Chardonnay has firmly established itself as one of the great styles of Australian wines and this is simply yet more evidence. Pale yellow gold hue, the nose offers florals, figs, citrus, a hint of pear and a touch of honey with peaches and an early note of nougat. There is quality oak, giving the character of grilled cashews, but the integration proceeds apace. It seems to me that this vintage of the MW Chardonnay is a little more elegant than is usual. A really impressive, refined wine, exhibiting early complexity with a fine line of acidity and excellent length, balance and an appealing texture. There is room to improve further over the next six to eight years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
