Old Vine by Adrian Hoffmann Lowke Block Shiraz 2021

From the Hoffmann Family Vineyards stable, this is an extraordinary Barossa Shiraz – in no uncertain terms. From the family’s blocks in the northern Valley’s Ebenezer district, Adrian Hoffmann clearly knows what his old vines are capable of – how far their fruit can go in the vineyard in terms of balance of ripeness, flavour, power and resilience, and how much “lift” they can sustain in a winemaking sense: intense extraction, three years in French oak to start with, structural integrity – the whole shebang. The result is an off-the-charts Barossa Shiraz expression – sure look at the abv rating and many will wince, yet smell, taste and repeat and somehow it all sings in harmony with big, ripe, plum compote and big oak spice while retaining an amazing juiciness and acidity through the palate, mouthfilling, overwhelming in its finishing power, a touch of amaro bitters for good measure, and just a twink of alcohol warmth. Hold onto something steady if you’re planning more than one sip – it’s astonishing for more than just its alcohol rating. A superpower style with its own unique swashbuckle.