O’Leary Walker Hurtle Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV
- 92
- $35
- Drink by: 2022-2025
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We are seeing more sparkling wines from the Adelaide Hills these days, and it is proving itself one of the leading mainland regions for the style. The grapes for this delightful aperitif style hail from the O’Leary family vineyards in the region. The wine spent an amazing seven years on lees before release (longer than most Champagnes). The wine is named after Nick Walker’s grandfather, a famous winemaker in his day, especially with sparkling wines (he has the astonishing record of joining the Romalo Cellars to make sparklers after he had served in World War I and worked there till his passing in 1975). Nick’s dad, Norm, was another famed winemaker and also prominent with fizz. It really does run in the family. The wine is bright and fresh and yet it does exhibit some early complexity. There are notes of florals and lemons with a whiff of brioche. Good length and a tight, clean finish. Drink now, though it will not object to several years in the cellar where that brioche note is likely to be enhanced.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
