O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2022

Such an exquisite wine. Dave O’Leary compares 2022 with the legendary vintage of 2002 (what a surfeit of riches we’ve had with the 22s following the wonderful 2021s) and on the evidence of this wine, no argument from me. The dry grown vineyard is classic Watervale, red loam over limestone with a westerly aspect. The hand-harvested fruit is de-stemmed, crushed and gently pressed. A component of the pressings is incorporated with the free-run juice, which is chilled after the pressing. The juice is settled, racked and yeast added. Fermentation is kept cool and takes around ten to fourteen days. Beautifully perfumed, this is so fragrant – an utterly magical nose. The wine seems so fragile but there is coiled power lurking below. Seamless, balanced, focused, we have notes of lemons and limes, florals and glacéd fruit. Gentle persistence and the palate really is incredibly long. It is so beguiling now that cellaring will be difficult but it will easily handle ten to twenty years and improve over that time. A brilliant Riesling. This is $25. Seriously? Is this the greatest bargain to be found anywhere in the world? Anyone without a case or two in the cellar is not serious about wine.