O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2022
- 98
- $25
- Drink by: 2022-2042
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Such an exquisite wine. Dave O’Leary compares 2022 with the legendary vintage of 2002 (what a surfeit of riches we’ve had with the 22s following the wonderful 2021s) and on the evidence of this wine, no argument from me. The dry grown vineyard is classic Watervale, red loam over limestone with a westerly aspect. The hand-harvested fruit is de-stemmed, crushed and gently pressed. A component of the pressings is incorporated with the free-run juice, which is chilled after the pressing. The juice is settled, racked and yeast added. Fermentation is kept cool and takes around ten to fourteen days. Beautifully perfumed, this is so fragrant – an utterly magical nose. The wine seems so fragile but there is coiled power lurking below. Seamless, balanced, focused, we have notes of lemons and limes, florals and glacéd fruit. Gentle persistence and the palate really is incredibly long. It is so beguiling now that cellaring will be difficult but it will easily handle ten to twenty years and improve over that time. A brilliant Riesling. This is $25. Seriously? Is this the greatest bargain to be found anywhere in the world? Anyone without a case or two in the cellar is not serious about wine.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
