O’Leary Walker Wines Seasonal Release Grenache 2020

At first glance you might think that owners and veteran winemakers David O’Leary and Nick Walker have decided for a life of pipe, slippers and port. You see this seasonal series range is made by the younger team of Jack Walker and Luke Broadbent, who are given a mandate to have a go and try things a bit different. But I suspect that the older guys are looking over their shoulders, albeit from a respectable Covid distance. This wine is a part of a regular seasonal release from this super Clare Valley maker. And the young team always seem to deliver something that is different and interesting. This is a cracker sourced from 100-plus year-old vines. It’s soft and supple, a result of basket pressing among other gentle winery techniques. It’s also had 10 per cent whole berries so there is structure to the soft, malleable fruit. The texture is seductive and engaging while the palate length is impressive with a spicy lift on the finish a striking feature.