Oliver’s Taranga Fiano 2021
- 92
- $27
- Drink by: 2021-2027
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One can argue whether or not the McLaren Vale or Barossa gets the nod for top Shiraz; debate fiercely whether Barossa Grenache outdoes its McLaren Vale counterpart; take to the barricades as to whether McLaren Vale Tempranillo is the goods, compared to that from the Barossa or anywhere else; but I would defy any local region to claim the Fiano crown ahead of McLaren Vale (if I had to name second place, Queensland’s Granite Belt). And this cracking example from Corrina and her team is ample evidence why. This is made with as little intervention as possible. Indigenous yeasts, and for the first time, a small amount was fermented in old French oak. It was also, for those following the story, the year where a ‘vigorous kangaroo buck fight took out two whole vines of Fiano!’.
Exotic aromas flood forth. Florals, ripe orange rind, beeswax, apple pie, stonefruits. Such an alluring nose. Move to the palate and there is delightfully juicy acidity, fine balance throughout and a seamlessness to it. This is a cracking example of Fiano from the Vale. It delivers now but I’d also love to see what it becomes with five to six years in the cellar.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
