Oliver’s Taranga Shiraz 2021

South Australian Shiraz has a reputation for being big and bold – blockbuster wines. There’s definitely a place for that but wines like this show just how expressive Shiraz can be. There’s spicy, syrupy (but not jammy) blackberries and blood plums offering a lifted freshness. It has minerality akin to the satisfying earthiness that lingers in the air after an afternoon of planting seedlings in the garden.

There’s powerful concentration too but also poise. Lashings of fruit and dark soft Darrell Lea licorice, high levels of buoyant ripe tannins and a savoury peppercorn finish. At this price buy some to drink now, some for the cellar and some for your friends.