Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz McLaren Vale 2023
- 94
- $32
- Drink by: 2025-2037
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Naming the wine ‘undercover’ is a nod to McLaren Vale’s history of providing first class red grapes to so many other regions for so many years. Nowadays, Langhorne Creek probably fills that role. McLaren Vale is, thankfully, finally receiving the accolades it deserves. The fruit here came from three different vineyards in the region, planted between 20 and 140 years ago. Maturation was for 15 months in a mix of new and older French oak hogsheads. The colour is an opaque maroon. The nose offers a range of flavours, incorporating cassis, mocha, spices, blueberries, chocolate and a touch of slightly coconutty oak, an absolutely alluring nose. This is seamless with a supple and seductive texture, very good length and silky tannins while the intensity is maintained for the full journey. This is a cracker that will drink beautifully for at least the next dozen years. Love it.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
