Rowlee Single Vineyard Pinot Gris 2024

This cool climate Pinot Gris is a glorious demonstration of what the variety can achieve when taken seriously. With fruit from a single vineyard, picked later to allow richness to develop, it offers up Beurre Bosc pears and height-of-ripeness white peaches. Initially playing a supporting role, time in the glass allows the floral tang of Meyer lemon citrus to join the party. It’s hard to say whether it’s the fruit quality or some latent spice in the older French barriques used for fermentation, but there’s also a sprinkle of sweet baking spices drifting in the aromas. What is certain, is that the French oak barriques have enhanced the satiny texture. Orchard fruits come to the fore again on the palate, alongside a balancing citrus acidity. The style hints at premium examples from Alsace but with a beautifully dry and extremely moreish Australian approach.

Nicole Bilson

Wine Critic at Winepilot

Nicole loves wine. So much so that she gave up a successful career in Pharmacy, perfected her spitting technique, and moved from sunny Queensland to the wine-drenched laneways of Melbourne. Stints in hospitality, wineries, retail, sales and marketing filled the next few years while Nicole built her knowledge and searched for the right path. She completed the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) Diploma in 2016 and became a certified WSET Educator the following year. She now juggles a number of roles including teaching people about wine, curating wines lists for restaurants and bars, judging in Australian wine shows and, of course, writing. In 2016 she won the Negociants Working With Wine writing award and has since contributed to Gourmet Traveller WINE, Halliday Wine Companion Magazine and Nourish Magazine.

Wine tasting