Saltram Journal Shiraz 2023

Coming from vines planted in 1895 (yes, you read that right), this is the Barossa Valley at its best. I found myself sniffing this wine for a long time, as I was drawn in by the luscious aromas of dark chocolate, red and black fruits, baking spices, cassis and some cedar. The palate is intense, a veritable carnival of flavour, with high-toned fruit and spice framed by massive tannins which still need to fully integrate but give the wine presence. While it has a whopping 15%ABV, you’ll barely notice it, as it’s hidden behind masses of structure and flavour. It needs a lot of time to breathe before drinking, and it will definitely benefit from some more cellaring time, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it lasts for another 20 years or more.

Brendan Black

Wine Critic at Winepilot

Brendan is a Melbourne-based writer, filmmaker, playwright and composer. Since 2013, he has been published in national and regional Australian titles such as Halliday Magazine, Gourmet Traveller Wine, Grapegrower and Winemaker, Gippslandia, Gippsland Lifestyle, Yarra Valley and Ranges and Gippsland Country Life magazines. Brendan was a finalist for 2024 Wine Communicator Awards in the 'Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column' category. He has completed the WSET Level 3 course (gaining a Distinction) and has a passion for small producers of wine, beer and spirits. He is also the co-editor of 'I'm Not a Film Star: David Bowie as Actor' for Bloomsbury Academic.

Author and wine writer