Tapanappa Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023
- 95
- $60
- Drink by: 2024-2032
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2023 was a cooler vintage than some on the Fleurieu Peninsula, indeed the coolest of four such years for the Foggy Hill vineyard. The cooler year led the team to forego any whole bunches in the ferment. The wine spent eight months maturing in barriques, one third new, before bottling. Winemaker Brian Croser has described this as a typical expression of the unique Foggy Hill terroir. Personally, I thought this stood up and was at least as impressive, if not more so, than any of this line I have seen. 1,300 six-packs made. Bright crimson in colour, there are notes of truffles, animal hides, forest floor, and a mix of cranberries and raspberries. There is complexity already apparent here and good intensity, though it remains, at all times, immaculately balanced. A silky texture and yet it also walks the tightrope to offer that intensity with fine, sleek, slippery tannins and impressive length. The line of acidity which runs the full journey ensures the wine has good energy. Drink any time from now for the next six to eight years, although probably considerably longer given the evidence provided by its sibling. Love this.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
