Tenafeate Creek Wines Durif 2023
- 92
- $35
- Drink by: 2025-2040
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Durif is an interesting variety, usually only seen locally as a solo grape from Rutherglen. This one is from a single vineyard planted back in 2008 in the One Tree Hill region. It is normally little more than a curiosity rather than something regarded as a noble variety, but it has its fans. Lovers of big and bold (and alcoholic) reds tend to be among them (this example hits 16%). That said, many years ago, giving a wine class, a hand shot up with one of the participants insisting that Durif was the greatest of all grapes. To their credit, they would not be swayed. I found out later that the relevant person was a politician, so I should not have been surprised at crazy talk, but in fairness, there are some thoroughly enjoyable examples that have their time and place. And this example is most certainly enjoyable. An opaque purple, the nose offers notes of chocolate, blackberries, spices, cloves, coffee grinds, soy, mocha and licorice. Big and full flavoured, this is a little chunky in style but that is the grape. A muscular wine with serious length, there are fine but firm tannins on the finish, and loads of them. It has a good ten to fifteen years ahead of it. If you are someone who enjoys big, bold, robust reds, get on board.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
