Thistledown Fool on the Hill Old Vine Eden Valley Grenache 2025
- 94
- $105
- Drink by: 2026-2036
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A confession. When I saw the name of this wine, I got a little bit excited. I thought it was a tribute to one of my all-time favourite books, “Fool on the Hill” by Matt Ruff. It is a touch weird, talking animals, bike-riding bohemians and so much more, but an utter joy. Turns out it is in fact a tribute for the pioneers who planted the vineyard from which the fruit here is sourced. What they have in common is that this wine is also an utter joy. The vineyard is Joel Mattschoss’ Trial Hill Vineyard, a tiered vineyard in the Eden Valley. 2,841 bottles made. Crimson with a garnet edge, this is a finely crafted Grenache with aromas of strawberries, aniseed, garden herbs, bay leaves and truffles. Sleek and supple in texture, it is finely balanced with a lingering finish. Absolutely delicious and should remain so for at least a decade. I can think of nothing better than settling down with a glass of this and a great book, especially if they share the name, and just drifting away.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
