Wines by Johannes Zillinger Numen Riesling 2020

Zillinger’s Numen range is a supremely expressive Riesling. Made from the oldest vines, there is close to no intervention. This Riesling sees a short time on skins in amphora, then slowly pressed before being left on its lees for 14 months in 600 litre old oak barrels. Slightly cloudy, the wine already shows a certain density in the glass. The nose is expressive and reminds me of the smell of an orchard at the time of harvest; orange peel, Nashi pear, pink ladies, honeysuckle, fresh ginger, mandarin, honey and wax. The palate is not what you would expect from a typical Riesling – the lees contact gives body and richness but with beautiful acidity. There is pomelo on the palate, providing zesty citrus freshness to the ripe pear and waxy contour. As it evolves, there are notes of apricots poached with cinnamon sticks, brown sugar on a piece of lemon and small tropical white guavas with a long finish. A mouth filling wine with lots of complexity re-imagining Riesling in a different outfit. An asset for a good dinner party!

Liinaa Berry

Liinaa Berry is a Melbourne-based wine critic and consultant with over a decade of experience as a sommelier and wine buyer across Australia and around the world where she has built award-winning wine programs and championed independent producers with conviction. Now focused on reviewing and writing, Liinaa brings a floor-trained palate and commercial insight to her assessments. She is also the Melbourne Ambassador for Star Wine List and serves on the committee of Sommeliers Australia. An advocate for site-driven wines and thoughtful farming, Liinaa is particularly drawn to producers who articulate a clear sense of place. Her tasting philosophy centres on structure, balance and context — always asking not just how a wine tastes, but why it matters.