Xiao Pu Perdue 22.3 Pinot Noir
- 93
- $89
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Made by nomadic négociant Ian Dai Hongjing under his ‘Perdue’ label — this is the third release, drawn from Ningxia fruit — with native yeasts, uncontrolled ferments and light extractions, the winemaking kept deliberately simple so the focus falls on the blend. This wine weighs in at a breezy 11.8% ABV. It’s floral and laden with brown spice and bunchy tones on account of the 100% whole bunch fermentation. Lifted lavender and violets intermingle with pimento, tomato leaf, cinnamon quill and nutmeg. The fruit takes a back seat here, with just ripe red plum and tart red cherry vying for attention through the savoury tones. The palate is light-on-its-feet and eminently lifted without a hint of weightiness. It follows suit in character with an immediate wrap of assertively chalky tannins that tug at the tongue. At 11.8% ABV, this isn’t brimming with concentration and there’s certainly a tartness to the fruit that some may find challenging, though the finish is cool and fresh with a sour cherry aesthetic melding with the bunchy tones as it pulls through to solid length. Loads of interest here, and those who go for angular and nervy styles will be pleased.
Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.
