Yalumba The Steeple Shiraz 2022

A lot of oak at the fore initially — unsurprising given its 16 months in French barriques, 24% new. Cedar, bacon fat and ground nutmeg take centre stage and remain there while blackberry and black cherry fruit tries to push through, along with violets and black liquorice. Vanilla paste also plays a role. The palate shows better balance overall — blackberry, black cherry, cedar, black olive, liquorice and dried violet again, with subtle black pepper in the background. The grape tannins are firm-but-fine, putting up a nice frame, while the oak tannins add some chew. The oak does sit forward at this stage, and some patience will be required to allow the fruit from those precious centenarian vines to shine more fully.