Yalumba Virgilius Viognier Eden Valley 2023

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Unquestionably Australia’s flagship Viognier, and has been for many years, the Virgilius sits comfortably with the best made on the planet (and is usually significantly better buying). From the Eden Valley, this comes from the team’s oldest Viognier vines – they first planted this variety back in 1980 when there seemed every chance that it would slide into extinction. This vintage spent ten months in French oak. A pale lemon hue, this is beautifully aromatic. No escaping the grape though – Viognier is as distinctive as Gewürztraminer, when well made. There is ginger and lemongrass here, but most especially apricot, along with mandarins, nectarines and a touch of orange rind. We also have aromas of spices and a touch of limes. Such balance and length! A superb Viognier/Virgilius, which surely has at least six to ten years ahead of it.

Ken Gargett
Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic
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