The Bekkers story is a good one – Aussie boy meets French girl, both in the wine game, and they put their heads down and pedal hard to make some of McLaren Vale’s best. Toby’s long viticultural career dovetails superbly with Emmanuelle’s very fine touch in the winery, which really brings some fascinating feminine touches into the wines, which I have have never tasted quite so much as in this 2018 multi-vineyard McLaren Vale Syrah.

It is deeply coloured but needs some serious air to come out of its shell – and come out it does. There is really quite lovely brightness and purity to the fruit – blackberry, violets, spice and oak and coming together so beautifully. It is then full-bodied, concentrated, complex and seamless on the palate but with some McLaren Vale grunt too – blackberry fruit is there but is joined by roasted meats, cola and dried spice with touches of olive tapenade and bacon fat too. Love how drinkable it is right now – it could do with some more tannin but that is really being picky – it will still drink well for a decade or more. Nice people, and nice wine.

If you love McLaren Vale – it is worth getting on the Bekkers train right here.