Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2023

There has been a great deal of hype about this latest release of the Graveyard Shiraz, not surprisingly, and it has a string of extremely high scores to its name already. From an excellent vintage for the region, it is almost seen as a fail if this is not considered the very best red from the Hunter Valley region. Mind you, it does have serious competition (Tyrrell’s 4 Acres would be my pick for its closest competitor). The team suggest that it will sit alongside Graveyards like 2018, 2014, 1998 and 1986. If it can be spoken of in the same sentence as 1986 then it will be very special indeed. Maturation was in French oak, 15% of it new. Dark purple with a garnet rim, the nose is full of gorgeous fragrances of red fruits, spices, tobacco leaves, leather, animal skins, cedar, florals and cigar boxes. Think Cohiba Siglo VI and you’re getting somewhere. A wine of balance, length and a seductive texture, it finishes with fine, if slightly furry tannins. No reason this won’t provide pleasure for at least thirty years and over that time, perhaps edge up another point or two.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic