Brown Brothers Patricia Noble Riesling 2019

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Noble riesling has been grown and made at Milawa since 1962, a vintage during which the then winemaker, John Graham Brown, remembers seeing a cloud of mould spores erupting from riesling fruit as it entered the crusher. It was botrytis and he was probably the first Aussie winemaker to see that the mould could be good, very good, for his riesling, turning it sweet and divinely drinkable.

The 2019 Noble riesling is golden in colour, viscous and sweet on the tongue with the kind of botrytis-complex intensity that makes wine writers with sweet tooths go weak at the knees. Where to start? The aromas are fragrant, floral and honeyed in dried apricot, cumquat, lime marmalade and almond. The palate is dense and beautifully balanced, built around layers of texture and sweet, citrus and dried fruit flavours. The trick with sweet wines is knowing how to manage acidity, making for a clean, bright finish.

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