Bundalong Coonawarra Shiraz 2020 

Here we have a single-vineyard wine from the Childerley Block on Terra Rossa soils, located 15 minutes north of Penola. It spent time in 22% new French barriques, with the balance in seasoned oak. This is a decidedly savoury affair, with the fruit expressed in evolved and nuanced forms. It opens on dusty cedar before broadening into salted grilled meat, vanilla, black olive, eucalyptus oil, bramble, plum, tomato bush and tobacco leaf. Layers of dried herbs, leather and blackberry reduction follow. The palate is open-knit and in step with the nose – sappy in feel, wrapping around notes of blackberry compote, plum, tomato bush, pan juices, dried oregano, cedar and a hint of black pepper spice. At five years of age, the tannins have melted nicely into the wine, while still providing enough frame to carry a finish of good length. I’d drink this sooner rather than later. For $35, it offers solid savoury complexity and will pair well with grilled beef.