Bundalong Coonawarra Shiraz 2020
- 91
- $35
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Here we have a single-vineyard wine from the Childerley Block on Terra Rossa soils, located 15 minutes north of Penola. It spent time in 22% new French barriques, with the balance in seasoned oak. This is a decidedly savoury affair, with the fruit expressed in evolved and nuanced forms. It opens on dusty cedar before broadening into salted grilled meat, vanilla, black olive, eucalyptus oil, bramble, plum, tomato bush and tobacco leaf. Layers of dried herbs, leather and blackberry reduction follow. The palate is open-knit and in step with the nose – sappy in feel, wrapping around notes of blackberry compote, plum, tomato bush, pan juices, dried oregano, cedar and a hint of black pepper spice. At five years of age, the tannins have melted nicely into the wine, while still providing enough frame to carry a finish of good length. I’d drink this sooner rather than later. For $35, it offers solid savoury complexity and will pair well with grilled beef.
Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.
