Clandestine Vineyards Chardonnay 2020
- 92
- $30
- Drink by: 2020 - 2028
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One sniff of the glass and it is obvious we have a very fine Margaret River Chardy on our hands. It is crafted from a vineyard in the Wilyabrup region, planted in 1990, and also planted with the famous gin gin clone, which is behind most of the best Margaret River Chardonnay. Free run juice, 11 months in French oak, 25% new and the rest a mix of first and second use. No lees stirring and no malolactic with a total of only 2,640 bottles.
Good intensity here and lovely oak. At this early stage, there might be a smidge more oak than some would like (others will be delighted). Either way, there is the fruit to match and early complexity coming through. That lovely melon, citrus and stonefruit that is a hallmark of the clone is on show here, as is the concentration and power it provides. Seamless with really good length; even better in 6 to 12 months and should then drink beautifully for many more.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
