Crittenden Estate Cri de Coeur Sous Voile Savagnin 2019

Cri de Coeur – “cry from the heart” – is a passionate call to arms on behalf of Mornington Peninsula winemaker, Rollo Crittenden. It asks consumers to consider a wine outside the norm, at least in Australia, where the role of yeast – specifically, a veil of yeast which covers the surface of wines often associated with Sherry or the Jura – plays a vital role in the shape and flavour of the Savagnin grape as it ages in barrel. The result is quite magical, warm, textural and beautifully honey-defined and nutty. Immediately inviting in aromas of baked quince, fig, honey and toasted almonds. Flavours are measured and dry with acidity playing a role in keeping a five-year-old wine looking so fresh and vital as it explores a rich field of heady tastes, including the oxidative. Baked quince, grilled nuts, buttered toast, ginger and spices mix freely, easily. Few Australian makers dare to dream and then consummately achieve this style of vinous excitement.