Crittenden Estate Cri de Coeur Sous Voile Savagnin 2019

Cri de Coeur – “cry from the heart” – is a passionate call to arms on behalf of Mornington Peninsula winemaker, Rollo Crittenden. It asks consumers to consider a wine outside the norm, at least in Australia, where the role of yeast – specifically, a veil of yeast which covers the surface of wines often associated with Sherry or the Jura – plays a vital role in the shape and flavour of the Savagnin grape as it ages in barrel. The result is quite magical, warm, textural and beautifully honey-defined and nutty. Immediately inviting in aromas of baked quince, fig, honey and toasted almonds. Flavours are measured and dry with acidity playing a role in keeping a five-year-old wine looking so fresh and vital as it explores a rich field of heady tastes, including the oxidative. Baked quince, grilled nuts, buttered toast, ginger and spices mix freely, easily. Few Australian makers dare to dream and then consummately achieve this style of vinous excitement.

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic