Cullen Legacy Series Fruit Day Kevin John Chardonnay 2021

What do you do when you make one of the very best Chardonnays in the country? Do it all over again with small batches. Vanya Cullen is the force behind the wonderful Kevin John Chardonnay and uses the inspiration of her late father, who was also determined to make the best Chardonnay he could, to make a small series of special wines, called the Legacy Series, working with the biodynamic calendar. Hence, we have this wine, the Fruit Day, where the grapes used were, as suggested, harvested on a fruit day according to the biodynamic calendar. The bunches were placed in amphorae for two days skin contact, before pressing to biodynamic puncheons, 50% of them new. The wine then spent a further eight months in oak, 80% new, before bottling without fining or filtration. Granted, not cheap, but this would sit comfortably next to Burgundies worth considerably more. Just 1,308 bottles made.

Deep yellow in colour, it is immediately obvious that this is a young Chardonnay, but one that is already exhibiting some serious complexity. Richly flavoured with notes of nuts, ginger, citrus, stonefruit with peaches to the fore, a hint of beeswax, florals and herbs. Such a seductive texture, with immaculate balance, real power and wonderful length. A wonderful Chardonnay at this early stage, but it should only get better over the next decade.