Cullen Legacy Series Fruit Day Kevin John Chardonnay 2021
- 97
- $350
- Drink by: 2022-2032
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What do you do when you make one of the very best Chardonnays in the country? Do it all over again with small batches. Vanya Cullen is the force behind the wonderful Kevin John Chardonnay and uses the inspiration of her late father, who was also determined to make the best Chardonnay he could, to make a small series of special wines, called the Legacy Series, working with the biodynamic calendar. Hence, we have this wine, the Fruit Day, where the grapes used were, as suggested, harvested on a fruit day according to the biodynamic calendar. The bunches were placed in amphorae for two days skin contact, before pressing to biodynamic puncheons, 50% of them new. The wine then spent a further eight months in oak, 80% new, before bottling without fining or filtration. Granted, not cheap, but this would sit comfortably next to Burgundies worth considerably more. Just 1,308 bottles made.
Deep yellow in colour, it is immediately obvious that this is a young Chardonnay, but one that is already exhibiting some serious complexity. Richly flavoured with notes of nuts, ginger, citrus, stonefruit with peaches to the fore, a hint of beeswax, florals and herbs. Such a seductive texture, with immaculate balance, real power and wonderful length. A wonderful Chardonnay at this early stage, but it should only get better over the next decade.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
