Delatite Devil’s River Cabernet Merlot 2022

Originally, when I got interested in wine, the first time I ever thought I might be able to identify a wine blind was the Delatite Devil’s River. Fortunately, I was never put to the test, but it always struck me as having a delightfully minty, almost toothpaste-like note (it is much more appealing than that might suggest). It is a character that some adore, while others perhaps less so. If that mintiness is something that appeals to you then you’ll love the wine. For me, this has always been a wine which simply screams of its terroir. Fermentation was with native yeasts. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and dollop of Cabernet Franc. Maturation is in an equal mix of French and American oak, 40% of which is new. Deep blood red with a garnet rim, for me the wine has that absolutely typical mint/toothpaste-like note, exactly as one would expect. That sits alongside characters weaving through chocolate, cherries, blackberries and spices. There is good oak integration here and the wine has focus and notable length, through to satiny tannins. Neatly balanced, this should drink impressively over the next eight years.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic